Gao Den, located in Stodůlky, is not exactly the easiest place for me to reach by public transport from where I live. Still, its strong presence on social media had piqued my curiosity for some time, and today I finally decided to visit.
The restaurant sits at the base of one of two tower blocks, alongside a bakery and a pizzeria. It is not a place you are likely to stumble upon by accident, especially Gao Den itself, which is tucked around a corner. Even I found myself briefly wondering whether I had taken a wrong turn.
I arrived at 12:30 for lunch. The restaurant was busy, though not completely full, with plenty of Czech diners but not a single Vietnamese guest in sight. The interior is stylish and comfortable, a far cry from the simpler Vietnamese restaurants found at SAPA or in my own neighbourhood.
Prices are a little higher than average, though still reasonable and quite fair, considering the setting. The entire waiting staff consisted of young Czechs—no Vietnamese—and they were both polite and friendly.
For my starter I chose a mini-version of one of my favourite soups, Bún Bò Huế (CZK 99), followed by the fresh salad Bún Bò Nam Bộ with beef (CZK 275). The latter is also available with chicken or tofu.
Fortunately, the soup arrived first, and it certainly looked appealing. The clear broth had a nice colour, topped with some fresh greens—though not many—and served in an attractive bowl. What was missing, however, were condiments. No opportunity to adjust the flavours myself, not even a wedge of lime. Tasting the broth, it was only just above lukewarm and rather flat, lacking in character. I longed to add pickled garlic, lime, roasted chilli flakes, and more fresh herbs, but was left to imagine them. The beef itself was outstandingly tender, perhaps the best I have ever had in a Bún Bò Huế, but the rest of the dish felt dull and anonymous. The versions I have had at SAPA, or even at my local restaurant Pho Family, had far more depth and vibrancy. There was also no trace of spice whatsoever, which felt uncharacteristic. It seemed that the “modern” in the restaurant’s description should be understood as “we’ll make sure not to offend anyone—or wake them up if they are dozing.”
My main course, the Bún Bò Nam Bộ, had a little more personality, thanks to the fish-sauce-based dressing at the bottom, which was funkier than expected. Either an unusually good fish sauce was used, or perhaps a touch of fermented shrimp paste (mắm ruốc) had been added. I was also pleased to see fresh and aromatic perilla leaves, not something you find in just any supermarket here.
That aside, the dish again sat firmly in the middle of the road, seemingly terrified of introducing anything bold or surprising. It made perfect sense, then, that there was not a single Vietnamese guest present: they would surely seek food with more edge, and would expect—if not insist—that condiments be provided so they could season to their own taste.
Gao Den is elegant, friendly, and serves attractively presented dishes made from quality ingredients. But in all its polished restraint, it is entirely forgettable. A shame, really, as the raw materials deserve more.
Gao Den
Tlumačovská 2766/26a
Stodůlky, 155 00
+420 775 054 445
https://gaoden.cz/info@gaoden.cz
Opening hours:
Mon: Closed
Tue – Fri: 11:00 – 22:00
Sat: 12:00 – 22:00
Sun: Closed