Back in the “good old days” before Covid, there was an annual restaurant festival in January and February. It allowed diners to book tasting menus with wine at some of the country’s best restaurants for a price that offered great value for money. It was also an opportunity to try places that might usually be beyond one’s budget. The last festival took place in 2020—then Covid hit. The pandemic eventually ended, but the festival never returned.
Currently, V Zátiší Restaurant and Mlýnec offer something similar: three courses, two glasses of wine, and water. The price is CZK 1,190, or CZK 1,071 for free members of the Zátiší Club. This effectively includes the tip if you simply round up the original price to CZK 1,200.
Originally planned for January 6 to February 13, the festival menu has been extended twice and now runs until the end of March. When booking a table, you need to specify that you want the festival menu. It’s available for lunch and early dinner, with the table to be vacated by 7:00 PM.
I booked a table at both participating restaurants for this special menu, with my first visit on Sunday, March 9, at V Zátiší. My reservation was for 5:30 PM, and while the experience was relaxed, I left by 6:50 PM—perfect timing.
I love the cozy atmosphere of the restaurant, and of course, the service was exactly as it should be: friendly, attentive, and engaged, but without lingering too long at the table.
Water is included, still or sparkling. I opted for sparkling and was pleased to see it was locally sourced and served in reusable glass bottles. I’m not a fan of overpriced bottled water that has been transported thousands of kilometers just for the sake of branding.
The meal started with house-made bread and herb butter: a rustic loaf with buckwheat and caraway, alongside a focaccia. Both were tasty, though the focaccia was somewhat unremarkable.
With the first wine—a 2022 Casalforte Soave made from Grecanico and Garganega grapes—came the amuse-bouche: a bell pepper and paprika foam with root vegetables and herb oil. It was exactly what an amuse-bouche should be: a delightful, “give-me-more” teaser for the taste buds.
The starter was veal consommé with oxtail-filled ravioli, lučina (a fresh cheese made from milk, cream, and a pinch of salt), and root vegetables. The consommé was exceptionally rich and flavourful—one of the best soups I’ve had in a long time. The three ravioli had a nice bite and were equally delicious. The menu offered an alternative starter of potatoes, curd (tvaroh), paprika, and dill.
For the main course, there were two choices. I debated for a while but ultimately skipped the Tajarin with bisque, shrimp, and citrus. (By the way, Tajarin is a variation of tagliolini made exclusively with egg yolks and a special type of semolina—thanks, Google!). After a consommé, a bisque seemed a bit much.
Instead, I chose Přeštík pork loin with pumpkin, chestnut, and bone marrow sauce. I’m usually not a big fan of chestnuts or pumpkin, but in this dish, they truly shined. The chestnut purée was enriched with a generous amount of butter (which is practically a luxury item these days), giving it a wonderful texture and taste. The pumpkin, which I suspect was poached with herbs, was cooked just long enough to be tender and flavourful. The sauce had an earthy herbal note that paired beautifully with the pink, juicy pork, which was enhanced by a thin fatty edge for contrast. The meat was slightly chewy but not to the point of being an issue.
The wine was an oak-aged Chianti made from 100% Sangiovese—not a heavy or expensive one, but a well-chosen match for the dish.
There was only one dessert option, but that was more than enough for me—because if chocolate is involved, I’m in! The hot chocolate espuma with white chocolate ice cream and miso was sublime. The dark chocolate foam had a deep, intense, slightly bitter flavour, perfectly complemented by the small portion of sweet white chocolate ice cream. A crunchy, biscuit-like element added texture, and either the miso or a hint of salted caramel created a delightful contrast. Although light in texture, the dessert was satisfyingly rich in flavour.
Portion sizes and wine servings were just right—I left fully satisfied without feeling shortchanged. I highly recommend booking a table before March 31, as this special menu won’t be available after that. In fact, I’m seriously considering a second round to try the dishes I missed. And I’d gladly have that dessert again!
V Zátiší
Liliová 1, Staré Město, 110 00 Praha 1